Now begins the process of tearing the engine down so I can split the cases and bead-blast them in my blasting cabinet.  Just below the starting point is removing the pistons, and all the components on the sides of the cases.  The drive sprocket is worn beyond serviceable limits, so it will be replaced. 

There is quite a bit of rust and corrosion present on the left side...this is the drive-side of the motorcycle, and since it's chain drive, no doubt a lot of dirt, moisture, and road debris make its way into this area.  It should clean up pretty good though.  On the right I'm removing the neutral sensor sending wire.

With the Alternator cover removed, you can see the rotor on the left end of the crankshaft.  It's quite rusty for some reason!  Below right is the Stator with the field coil, both still in the left-crankcase cover.  I'll check the continuity and resistance measurements later, for now, we go on to get the cases split.

With the right-side Clutch cover removed, you can see the clutch basket and plates.  Removing the four screws allows the basket assembly to come off.  On the right is the view without the clutch.  Lots of levers and plates, so I'm glad I have these pictures to refer to when it comes time for reassembly.

Some of the hardware is removed to give me a better view of the remainder.  Next, I begin removing the bolts that are holding the two cases together.  But I need to turn it upside-down.

Here's a shot of the bottom, with the oil pan in prominent view.  It comes off easily, exposing the oil pick-up screen, the first filter in the oil-recycling process.

Below is a short sequence to show how the oil pump works.  This is a very close-tolerance part.  The center four-pointed star is slightly off-center from the center axis of the housing.  By rotating within the housing, it creates sufficient vacuum to draw oil through the pick-up, and compresses it as it rotates, forcing the oil into the transfer passages to the main bearing, and top-end of the engine, and through the oil filter.

The power generated by the pistons is transferred to the transmission, via the clutch, from the crankshaft by this Hy-Vo-type multilink primary chain.  The starter motor also engages the tiny gear to the left of the chain, very near the hex bolt on the left.  You can see the starter driven gear better on the lower right picture.  The starting clutch, bearing, and shaft have to be removed so the cases can be separated.  On the right, you can see the clutch and gear beside the engine, which is upside-down, exposing the transmission shafts and gears.

The shift fork below is retained on the shift drum by a small guide pin that lock the fork into one of the grooves of the drum.  A steel cotter-pin prevents the pin from falling out.  Removing the cotter-pin, and thus, the guide pin, allows the shift drum to slide out the side of the case.  Lower right is the top half of the engine case, ready for degreasing and media blasting.  The lower half of the engine case can be seen on the floor.  This completes the engine teardown, restoration of the parts, and engine assembly are next, along with the frame assembly.